thewordmay

The Word Hanoi was kind enough to invite me to write something for the May 2013 edition. It’s available for viewing in PDF or on Issu. My middling contribution’s on page 12 or here.

I get lost in my own tangles when writing, forget that any reader(s) don’t have access to my train of thoughts. Rhythmic paranoia—it all starts to sound like the same plodding beat.

What follows below is the rant I originally submitted before rewrites for focus and word length. Defeats the whole purpose of editing, but it’s interesting to compare, to see how a critical eye and very patient guidance can nail a muddy whinge down to something more structured and clear. At least I think so anyway. Always been a nut for process. And if nothing else, it demonstrates what the editors’ thin red lines are protecting you from.

The Editor—An Artist's Impression (included in my Vietnamese textbook)

The Editor—An Artist’s Impression. From my Vietnamese textbook. No, really.

I sit and wait for someone to snap.

It wouldn’t take much. A killer day at work, the miscarriage of an unjustified harangue from a stressed boss. The scar of a busted mirror that spatially deluded SUV left on a recently purchased Piaggio. The first soggy bite into a guava past its prime. Kindling teeters a while before the cafe’s solace is sought. So when the camera lens intrudes, a step away, maybe less, and the flash the flash—fires in a face that just can’t take any more…

Volume bucks control, gesturing claims a glass or two, sunflower seeds scatter. A proper freak-out.

I’ve yet to witness anything resembling the responses I expect. While I glare back, indignant, locals barely notice.

The brazenness goes beyond normal tourist pathology because there’s no way the same people would shake off tact’s shackles so freely in London, or Paris, or New York. Assumed language barriers assist with the armour of entitlement. Motion is also an enabler, meaning the Du Lịch Xanh Green Tourism vehicles earn an imagined reckoning all to themselves. I know. They have noise and pollution reduction on their side. The traffic snailing in their wake is forgivable, but those karmic credits can’t hold up when you’re reminiscent of the golf cart limousines ferrying visitors through an open range zoo.

A glance at the city’s arrays of blue stools suggests a friendliness towards photography in general. Riding past, I sometimes catch what looks like a mass appeal for reading glasses—the salute of extended, bemobiled arms, heads bunched together in clusters as if squinting at the same stubbornly unresolving blur. Smartphones are just the most convenient expression of passions that run deeper, I think. The density of high-end SLRs is enviable, their lenses and accessories, passed around, discussed and compared, cradled or dangling from straps attached to their often teenaged owners. Sure, conspicuous consumption is in abundance, but investments as boutique as a Leica can’t rest so heavily on brand recognition to deliver admiration returns that are able to warrant their outlay. Manzi Art Space is hosting an Invisible Photographer Asia street photography workshop later this May. International award winners like Maika Elan, and the photographers spotlighted by the Smithsonian Magazine and Sony World Photography, have all gotten coverage in the Vietnamese press.

Its social quality, at least as far as surface impressions go, is striking. Although sunny days entice the standard wedding party weather opportunists, Hanoi’s lakes welcome just as many couples and groups out taking pictures of each other for the fun of it. Even my amateur eye appreciates the magical combination of climate, material finishes, and exhaust fumes that’s created concrete distress begging for reproduction in the avant-garde interior design studios of the world. Pick a wall, any wall. A portrait photographer’s paradise. The lone enthusiast out to capture candid slices of city happenings seems much, much rarer.

I asked my language teacher for a little sweeping generalisation-making help and she did her best to explain: “Văn hóa Việt Nam vừa mở vừa đóng.” A culture both open and closed, the hinge between insider and outsider trumping the private/public divide. It’s not as if sauntering up to someone enjoying their coffee and shoving a zoom in their face is condoned. Everyone who’s wanted a photo with me has always asked permission beforehand, significant considering stares are usually unabashed. It’s more like a free pass from etiquette’s one-way valve. The way life bleeds over into communal spaces relaxes personal image preciousness and casts doubt on whether it’s worth the fuss of a direct confrontation to defend. Especially when—rather than in spite of when the offending party’s so obviously a stranger. A Vietnamese colleague assured me that one more year in Hanoi and I’d have all the intricacies down. I sincerely doubt it.

Which means the impolite tourist really shouldn’t be my problem. Wallowing in surrogate victimhood is condescending and hypocritical. I admire street photography’s results with no pangs of guilt. The iron principle I’m standing on is what exactly…shades of subtlety?

But something petty refuses to let go. I still sit there, waiting for retaliation. A local photographer maybe, beating the interlopers to the draw, whipping up their own camera and shooting back

Because seriously.

Flashes?

The cost of land and housing in Hanoi, the lost art of four hour tea drinking sessions, Vingroup President Phạm Nhật Vượng’s (very) alleged links to a/the concrete mafia, adulterated and ersatz coffee scandals, the fashion export industry’s inexorable unfairness, regional variations on basic phở spices, conspicuous consumption trends, the centrality of Hanoian sidewalks and streetlife, ASEAN alcohol prices, international tax-free thresholds, appropriate monosodium glutamate deployment, the one party system’s throttling of development.

Oh, and Rihanna.

Does it still qualify as a conversation if one participant talks while the other silently congratulates himself on powering through tenuous comprehension, contributing a satisfied “ừ nhỉ” 1 at every significant breakthrough?

I was there for the right reasons. A recently married Vietnamese couple, whose ages—the husband slightly older than me, the wife slightly younger—corrupted my personal pronoun choices, had laughed at me joking around with the proprietor of a Phố Cổ cafe. Bia hơi invitations led to great times with their friends and a wormhole into the parallel health and safety standard universe of the Vietnamese club experience. Sorry DJs. Height, the prison of a packed dance floor, and ubiquitous cigarettes transforms any music inciting vigorous arm movements into an indistinguishable thrum of imminent immolation. Never send to know for whom the roof raises; it raises for thee.

The couple mentioned their marriage had acquired them the responsibility of running the family’s Đồng Đa bar. Gratitude inspired a show of support one quiet weeknight—a large space by Hanoian standards, wall-papered with murals from Greek and Roman antiquity. Three big screens ran FashionTV and most of the tables and booths were unoccupied. A customer or a relative, a man in his thirties, working his way solo through multiple refilled pots of green tea, abandoned his audible iPhone game and introduced himself in Vietnamese. We talked for an hour and a half. Instead of the standard “vân vân" 2, he’d trail off his implicit lists with a rapid, vaguely Germanic-sounding “ah-bɛ-tsɛ ah-bɛ-tsɛ”. The couple debated certain points or supplied simpler synonyms when they weren’t busy.

We are large, we contain multitudes…eh.

No earthshaking revelations, potentially important nuance lost to the aether. An inherent selection bias, as only a specific type of person is willing to bear execrable Vietnamese for any extended length of time. If the situation was reversed I’d give up around the fifth pitiful, “Sorry, what was that? I couldn’t quite hear clearly.” And I imagine someone comfortable with engaging a stranger to such a degree—particularly a stranger who telegraphs his taxing demands on patience—is fundamentally more open or opinionated or cosmopolitan than the rest of us jammed under the bell curve’s hulking mass. It’s not something you easily forget though, or dismiss entirely either. The worst kind of sweeping generalisations are consolidated when their subjects’ right to reply is denied, diminished, or summarily dismissed. First-hand bumps against the complex strangeness of reality, trading thoughts in another language on the “Where Have You Been” music video under the watchful ancient statue eyes of a bar in Hanoi, has to make you a little more tentative about whipping out the authoritative pronouncements.

Opinion pieces that brush the hair-trigger of my indignation pollute more considered analyses on the same theme. Recognise my foresight damn you, reassure me of my usefulness! Brain-raking smugness aside…the critiques are probably right. High school language classes were a nightmare. I’m the lingual equivalent of the born-again evangelist, the guy overflowing with such an irritating surfeit of recovered faith he simply must shout its welcoming embrace at whoever falls prey to his ambush. The problems with the Australian Government’s PowerPoint visions of Asia Literacy are eloquently and informatively highlighted in an essay by Dr Lewis Mayo. They’re the same perspectives that birth one well-meaning caller’s contribution near the end of an excellent Sinica podcast. His question about whether urging Chinese study upon his nieces “and any college type person” is sound advice was beautifully answered by Danwei’s Jeremy Goldkorn. You don’t torture yourself with Mandarin in the interests of future job security. You do it to unlock a “completely different way of thinking about life and language and writing”.

I get the depressing economies of journalism that necessitate its Airbourne Battalions and their frequent overreaches. I get that a tiny minority has the luxury of opportunities like those I’m enjoying, and a smaller subset see any worth in the sacrifices seizing them requires. I get that for most of the planet the whole point is moot and frankly kind of ridiculous.

But such random, dislocating weirdness always jolts me back to how learning another language is—fundamentally—really fucking cool. Even skimming the surface can feel like a privilege when so many others soar right on over the craziness below the clouds.


  1. Lit. “Oh, right.” Fig. “HOLY SHIT I ACTUALLY UNDERSTAND.”

  2. Etcetera, and so on.

The Vietnamese expansion plans were at the heart of things from the very beginning...(links to source image)

The Vietnamese expansion plans were at the heart of things from the very beginning…

(links to source image)

“Thông tin vào như nước sông Hồng,
Thông tin ra nhỏ giọt như cà phê phin.”

–VikiLeaks

It was slipped under the door, an unmarked yellow envelope with the thread and wheel seals that apparently only Hong Kong is cool enough to use on a regular basis—an impressive feat considering I still can’t pinpoint my apartment’s exact address. The densely populated warren that vomits out around Hồ Ba Mẫu is just blank space on Google Maps.

Deciding a blog laziness has pushed to the brink of death should be entrusted with such journalistic gold is certainly perplexing. Are there resonances that escape me? Strategic implications? The major player machinations in the escalating international tensions between coffee retailers with strikingly similar aesthetic senses remains opaque to us mere mortals. I don’t really have the Messiah complex required for the Assange mantle to rest comfortably. It appears I have little choice.

The script contained within seems horribly overwritten. Almost as if its author shot for something resembling a screenplay while ignoring the minor obstacle of having absolutely no idea what he or she was doing. It could be a pitch aid orphaned by rejection or a future campaign’s beginnings. The specificity’s all wrong for a shooting draft. There’d be fistfights on the set. I can’t decipher the hieroglyphic industry shorthand that covers its pages so ignored them. As far as I’m concerned it testifies to the document’s unimpeachable authenticity.

Others have written much more incisively about their assessments of Starbucks’ prospects here in Vietnam. Excessively offended condemnations veer a little too close to the bullshit pristine exotica fallacy informing so many crimes, especially the type that arrogate expressing sentiments on behalf of Vietnamese people. The brand’s one of those evocative icons of cultural homogenisation that’s now expected to take a beating. Starbucks offers me nothing. Đen không đường. It’s right there in the title. Nâu đá is an almost unbeatable dessert, and even espresso hankerings can be satiated with something far more interesting and deserving of support. Ultimately though, the Seattle siren’s fate is equally as divorced from me. Indigenous aspirations create an irresistible niche. Sad, yes, but dwarfed in scale by other pillages, both real and potential. If you can emerge from globalisation wearing an “I integrated into the international capitalist system and all I got was this lousy coffee” t-shirt, you’ve done pretty damn well for yourself.

Of course, Starbucks isn’t exactly helping itself by constantly reiterating its “deep respect for Vietnam’s long coffee traditions”. The one selling point on which the company inarguably has no claim. Tokenism like the “Asian Dolce Latte” and

“…the distinctive Starbucks community table, whose teakwood surface was recycled from a local villa, and an old ‘ba gac’ (bicycle), which was traditionally used to transport goods around the city in the past…”

bodes no better.

What do I know. Recent reports suggest things are proceeding as planned, in spite of the misguided platitudes. But I can’t help thinking Starbucks shareholders will rest easier knowing the leaked promo spot’s ambitions might live on, just waiting for a visionary capable of realising them.

EXT. SÀI GÒN - TWILIGHT


A dingy backstreet in the heart of the metropolis. Concrete rust
adorns the scarred orange walls of some nondescript shopfronts. Four
naked fluorescents dangling from makeshift hooks and wires
are prematurely flickering to life, audibly buzzing. They
compete with the crackle and pop from the loudspeaker peak of a
nearby tangle of power lines. Tinny Oriental music -- the kind
that soundtracks the vaguely racist stir-fry sauce advertisements
of massive multinational corporations -- infects the air. An OLD MAN hunches on a blue plastic stool. The wisps of his beard
point the way for anything else in the gutter the breeze manages to
push along. On the wall behind the man’s beret bumps a faded,
hand-painted: “CÀ PHÊ TRUYỀN THỐNG” Two glasses, one topped with a dented filter dripping sludge, the
other a stagnant leafy yellow, occupy the stool in front of him. A fly drifts across the man’s face. It settles on the lip of the tea
glass. Spasms. Tumbles in. The old man sighs a prelude to
the wracking cough that dislodges the thuốc lào pipe propped against his
leg. His eyes track its progress as it rolls -- loudly --
towards the left of screen. The man’s attention is still focused on his disappearing pipe when a
horn dopplers in from offscreen right. While his head is
turned, there’s a horrible metal on metal crunch and the entire scene
jolts violently to the left. (in the manner of an interrupted wipe, we catch a glimpse of the massive, silver fendered vehicle bulldozing its way into our POV) The man grabs at the beret his head leaves hanging when the frame
snaps back into place. His two drinks slosh. The fluorescents
swing. The CÀ PHÊ sign clings by a corner before surrendering to the
inevitable. Years of dust are visibly liberated from the
shopfront and its eaves. An air horn resounds once more, louder now, closer. An engine revs.
The old man throws up his arms in the face of the building roar.
This time, when the crash occurs, what we eventually can
identify as a black stretch HUMMER® limousine doesn’t stop. It’s
relentless, pushing the border of the new frame across. The aerial
old man tumbles in rapidly diminishing space before his world is
shunted away entirely. Stretch HUMMER® body whips past. We effectively... WIPE TO: EXT. HCMC CITY - NIGHT ...a familiar street scene, but less claustrophobic, less dank.
There’s certainly nothing creeping along the gutter -- it’s all
spotless. No orange walls in sight. No blue stools or handwritten
signs. Dark green umbrellas stand on either side of a crimson carpet leading
up to glass double doors glowing warmly from within. Half moons
of chrome embossed with the stylised image of a crowned lady
split in two form the doors’ handles. Second storey windows bear the
same ‘siren’ in green and white. The entrance itself is ostentatiously roped off. A queue of the
anonymous has been corralled to one side, its lumpy shadow tailing
offscreen and presumably around a distant corner. Two white blurs pull into the bottom corners of the foreground. We
rack focus to catch the BENTLEY® badges on both. The bass thump of
the introduction to CURRENT K-POP HIT SINGLE kicks in when the
first stiletto heel touches ground. It’s joined by a variety of
others, interspersed with the latest premium sneakers from
NIKE®, ADIDAS®, REEBOK®, CONVERSE®. There’s enough ridiculously
expensive designer shoes for seven people. Doors slam. We follow from behind as the group strides up the carpet-- dawdling a
little, creating more room, settling back into a slightly
truncated version of the Goodfellas tracking shot. Some are
carrying shopping bags. The glossy logos of D&G®, BURBERRY®,
CHANEL® et al. jostle for pride of place. A man in black with a headset and clipboard unhooks the rope and
professionally disappears. The KPOP HIT SINGLE intro swells. It
breaks into its first verse as our clique crosses the threshold of
the doors that have swung inwards on their own accord. INT. STARBUCKS® CÀ PHÊ - NIGHT An intimidatingly ornate chandelier is mirrored by a champagne
fountain of branded reusable cups atop a round chrome pedestal at
the forefront of what could be the cafe’s ‘atrium’. A staff
member -- on a step ladder and in black, with a green and white
crowned lady chest badge turned towards us -- times the beginning of
the milky caffeinated cascade perfectly. The floor is tiled
black and white, the siren enlarged and enmarbled. Subdued
lighting. Disguised lamps and spots pick out the design
details we’re meant to admire. Paper thin LCDs mounted at
regular intervals around the room cycle through drink specials.
Pearls of high definition condensation practically leap from the
screens. The pockets of patrons orbiting clusters of distressed chrome stools
and high tables, or nestled in cavities of dark suede sofas and
armchairs, are all as fashion press glamourous as our posse.
The latter weave their way on. They notice the ROLEXES®,
RADOS®, and TAG-HEUERS® crowning VENTI®-clutching hands. APPLE®
saturation is also nearing its maximum -- at least one
prominently displayed IPHONE® or IPAD® or MACBOOK® per trio of
customers lends its luminosity to the general ambience. Two of our group pull away towards one of the gently spiralling
staircases that flank the convex bar and drinks preparation area at
the back of the atrium. Hazy neon and laser flashes bouncing
around the stairwell interiors hint at the atmosphere anyone
venturing up can expect. PRADA® and LOUIS VUITTON® and friends are flung ahead of the group
onto the nook of furniture they’ve chosen to claim. We circle around
to a passing WAITRESS who receives their signalled orders with a
smile, the tracking shot continuing in the overlap, but now
shadowing her path to the coffee bar. She's briefly haloed in the buttery gold of the pastry case. Her relayed
orders get a nod from the cashier. Four other staff are shrouded in the
steam spat by three hulking pseudospresso machines. Each of the
blenders in the backlit rank stretching the length of the drink
preparation area whir above syrup dispensers glittering prismatically. A conservatively mohawked male barista -- think back-up dancer in the
music video for the CURRENT K-POP HIT SINGLE that hasn’t stopped
playing -- is garnishing an Asian Dolce Latte FRAPPUCCINO®
and a TAZO® Green Tea FRAPPUCCINO® with immaculate clouds of
whipped cream. The waitress collects the tray without slowing. Her target’s angled away from us, a male form in a dark pinstriped
suit sitting at a table to himself. Over his squared shoulder we see
the IPAD® commanding his attention. The waitress leans in lower.
The CURRENT K-POP HIT SINGLE reaches its maximum ear
worminality. The man rests his IPAD® in front of him, looks up... ...and graces us with the grin of the OLD MAN we last saw shunted into
nothingness by a marauding HUMMER®. He’s cleaned up, the grime
gone, the aura of drudgery and toil replaced with the practiced
leisure of the consolidated rich, but it’s still clearly him. Plus a BLUETOOTH® headset. He accepts the proffered drinks with x-ed wrists. The Gangnam-Styled
rein pump that synchs with rhythm of the non-diegetic soundtrack
cracks the waitress up. We swoop into an overhead as the the old man pivots around. His IPAD®
and the two FRAPPUCCINOS® now dominate the frame. A manicured
finger flicks the touchscreen: “SANG TRANG.” Flicks. “SANG TRỌNG.” Flicks. “SANG STARBUCKS®.” FADE TO LOGO ON BLACK

Aaaannnd…scene.

(republished over at diaCRITICS.org alongside entirely undeserved company and with a great illustration by Jiny Ung)

On my last day in Hanoi, at the end of three months travelling over the 2010 new year period, the Vietnamese friends I’d met who could tolerate frustratingly open questions were exploited. I became a recommendation beggar. Many were uncertain about the English translation availability of their favourite authors and poets. Some nominated books I’d already read. Nguyễn Quí Đức, owner of the now re-opened and relocated Tadioto, urged seeking out a collection of short stories by Phạm Thị Hoài.

Wednesday’s menu.

Had never heard of her. Mostly due to my ignorance, but also because the categories of foreign literature that prove easier to market in English language publishing don’t fit her well. She’s found considerable success in Europe and now lives in Germany (inspiring a film project that intrigues). Her novels and stories were blacklisted by the Vietnamese government but the “political activist” branding—of the Manichean, easily captured in press release kind that can make their industry champions dream of sales, acclaim, and awards—would need to be nailed in askew. She’s not silent on such matters. Not at all. While attempting to make this a little better informed, I was surprised by the quantity and proliferation of her more polemic writing. It just isn’t the defining feature of her fiction. Her purported literary crimes are closer to the ones Hanoi Ink explains led to the recent distribution suspension of illustrator Thành Phong’s Sát Thủ Đaù Mưng Mủ. Ms Hoài’s English translator Tôn-Thất Quỳnh-Du writes in his afterword:

“Despite having been attacked in a public forum, Phạm Thị Hoài has never been accused of political dissent [in terms of her novels and short stories]. Instead, her detractors have charged her with holding an ‘excessively pessimistic view’ of Vietnam, of abusing the ‘sacred mission of the writer’, and even of ‘salacious writing’.”

Makes for a pretty badass blurb, right? But you can kind of see why it’s Dương Thu Hương who gets the extended consideration from the likes of the New York Times. Those bold declaratives. ”The people have lost the power to react, to reflect, to think”; “a brutal and ignoble regime”; “I fight for democracy”. The laudatory profile of a defiant exile challenging a dictatorial state practically writes itself.

And that’s cool. I’ve finished a couple of her novels. They’re not my thing. I respect them for their role in expanding the audience for Vietnamese literature in translation, and perhaps encouraging the broader industry to take a few extra risks every now and then. Her statements against the Party are valid. It’s not Ms Hương herself who irritates. It’s the facile vision of the kinds of foreign novels deserving coverage, especially those about or involving non-democratic countries, and the lazy angle that coverage inevitably takes. Brendan O’Kane flays (with much more expertise) recent egregious examples relating to the Chinese presence at the London Book Fair.

Ms Hoài is mentioned in a 1994 fragment on the French legacy in Hanoi. Her tribulations are cited as emblematic of communist repression. The only reference to Ms Hoài’s work implies The Crystal Messenger (Thiên Sứ) is straightforward autobiography, presumably because its narrator is also named Hoài. Or maybe the writer thinks Ms Hoài actually did stop ovulating through force of will at age 14 (p. 19). It’s a short travel piece, and yes, I’m being unfair, but if you’re going to throw an author’s name around—an author who hasn’t reached cultural shorthand levels of fame—not including more about what they’ve authored, what the powers that be thought warranted the treatment you’re condemning, feels like a major elision.

Her renown in English isn’t helped by rarely explicitly writing about the French or American wars. In The Crystal Messenger the narrator’s eldest brother is a defector twice over. Her suitor sends her letters literally “from the front” addressed “to the girl at home”. Both nods reveal more about the respective characters than serve as propulsive plot points and otherwise the war is not mentioned. In the collection of short stories entitled Sunday Menu it has less of a presence. Ms Hoài was born in Hải Dương in 1960. She witnessed her share of that horror, as discussed in one of her essays linked to above. You can choose to see the aftermath of cataclysmic trauma in the fractured emotional lives of some of her protagonists, but it’s not nearly overt enough to slide neatly between the borders of enduring preconceptions. Getting a hold of Tôn-Thất Quỳnh-Du’s The Crystal Messenger and Sunday Menu translations can be a bit of a bitch. Conversely, Bảo Ninh’s Sorrow of War is deservedly available everywhere, and look at the reception that greeted Karl Marlantes’ Matterhorn, or Denis Johnson’s immersive, sprawling, US National Book Award-winning Tree of Smoke. Contemporary Middle Eastern disasters and a hunger for historical analogies fuel the monomania while the literary Vietnam that isn’t all battles and jungles gets scant recognition outside the academy. And when it’s not wars, the 1.1 billion citizens of the old imperial nemesis to the north usually, and somewhat understandably, devour whatever remains of the English-speaking world’s limited interest.

If eyes did accidentally drift over onto recent Vietnamese publishing, rewards admittedly wouldn’t be guaranteed. Autocratic cultural bureaucracies tend to embrace Sturgeon’s Law like it’s part of their mandate to enforce. A rich untranslated backlog, boundary skirters and taboo benders, and those writing in Vietnamese who through choice or necessity labour on outside the anachronistic infrastructure of control, suffer unduly because of its tarnish. It helps to have someone discerning (no seriously, thanks Đức) to tell you where to look. Vietnam’s pace of change and the echoes of its tumultuous history create the kinds of clashes, contradictions, and dissonance that can be alchemised into gold.

The intra and interpersonal conflicts Ms Hoài chooses to explore mightn’t be typical martial epics but they’re no less compelling or ruthlessly fought. A precis doesn’t really do The Crystal Messenger justice. The portrait of a girl’s adolescence in the shadow of her older twin sister’s monopoly on beauty and tragedy ranges further than such a summary suggests. Sexual awakening, a disastrous teacher-student liaison, gambling duels between a lottery racketeer and Saigon’s ice distribution king, the ambitions of an ideologically punctilious dwarf, an excerpt of stream of consciousness poetry, Machiavellian vengeance, a prison showdown written as a script, voyeurism, literary criticism, diary entries inscribed on an OCD husband’s toilet paper stockpile. Underpinning it all, despite her protestations, is narrator Hoài’s continuing search for a sign lasting happiness can be found in relationships with others. Everything she observes of her parents, siblings, and society upsets her already depressingly unbalanced bifurcation of the Homosapiens-A, who are capable of love, and the Homosapiens-Z, who are not. In the novel’s first few pages Hoài relates her mother’s pointedly repeated regret at marrying her father, the flint and steel for larger domestic conflagrations:

“I, the youngest child, the voluntary silent stenographer of the family history, even before learning to read and write, had started to collate these ‘why’ questions into double helixes resonant with the sounds of rain. They twisted around my neck like an uncut umbilical cord, strangling my pubescent dreams, dreams about a harmonious loving couple…”

It’s not lugubrious. Much too absorbing and caustically funny for that. Fundamentally I guess the visions of life Ms Hoài presents are sad, but they read human, and very true. Maybe it’s because most characters don’t just sit there passively and take it. Struggle abounds in Ms Hoài’s fiction—the struggle to connect, to sever, to find meaning, to escape into oblivion, to reconcile, to revenge, to forget, to resist desire, to satisfy it, to just get by on the day to day.

The sense of place is strong enough to give a recent reread its share of childish kicks but doesn’t aim for the eidetic or all encompassing. It’s the worlds of the characters rather than some general “Hanoi” that’s vividly captured. I can’t see the “Xanh, Sạch, Đẹp” signs ornamenting bus stops and garbage trucks without thinking of “Sunday Menu”’s ruinous “Keep the City Clean and Beautiful” campaign. In “In The Rain”, a pensive ageing radio jingle singer waits for a date optimistically young in a nondescript cafe she’s chosen and he’s puzzled by. He reflects on the city’s more “famous brown spots”, including “two adjacent cafes near the Thien Quang Lake where customers overflow onto the street…and if you venture in the space in between you would be literally torn to pieces by the rival touts pulling you in opposite directions.” Dismemberment mightn’t be as much of a risk but lakeside rivalries haven’t abated.

The Crystal Messenger is more firmly rooted in a specific era by narrator Hoài’s cutting asides about Soviet authors who never quite made it out of the bloc. Sunday Menu’s stories could be occurring now (absence of technology notwithstanding) or at any time over the last twenty years. Mr Quỳnh-Du highlights Ms Hoai’s refusal to shoulder Vietnamese literature’s traditional didactic responsibility as an unmistakably contemporary aspect of her work. You can’t come away from the stories believing in simple solutions, or relaxing into easy moralising. Certain archetypes that have a tendency to recur across the oeuvre of emigre authors with plenty of good reasons to hate those running things back home never make an appearance—guys like the Loathsome Official Who Encapsulates Everything Wrong With Society for example. In fact, the conceit of “A Traditional Short Story”, the last included in Sunday Menu, is Ms Hoài’s failed attempt at orchestrating “the arranged twists of fate that bring together so many characters, each a symbolic representation of something else.” The system might act as an enabler and an exacerbator but it’s not the fatal flaw vitiating what would be utopia. Ms Hoài’s characters are plenty capable of pettiness and cruelty all on their own.

Purely stylistically, her writing reminds me most of Isaac Babel. George Saunders has remarked on Babel’s simultaneous minimalism and maximalism. Ms Hoài’s is a similar arresting mixture of adroit economy and almost fevered explosions of imagery, sometimes beautiful, sometimes grotesque. It can be intense. She jams a hell of a lot into the two slim volumes I’ve read. In the loneliness of her almost exclusively urban plethora, denizens still inevitably rub up against each other. Hard. The stains and scars of the dirty grind are spotlighted. Bodies creak, sweat, groan, smell, and sag. Sometimes they’re stunted or deformed. At worst they bloat and rot, feeding “a thick black rain of flies”, or are “cut into three sections…clothes a bloodstained dark red.” There are no elegant áo dàied maidens contemplating sunsets over rice paddy. No travel brochure exotica. Anything hinting at the transcendental is fleeting, unappreciated in the moment and mourned with hindsight.

The prominence of often harsh physical realities, or as Mr Quỳnh-Du terms it, “a relentless focus [on] biological needs”, is honest and unmerciful, and part of the reason her writing hasn’t garnered officialdom’s approval. Crowds are tinctured bestial. A weekly public bathing ritual The Crystal Messenger depicts leaves narrator Hoài with “a terrifying impression about the fellow members of my species.” Neighbours prepare their “cleansing rite by splashing all the suppressed filth festering inside themselves on the heads of others.” Cyclo driver patrons of the food stall in the story “Sunday Menu” gorge like a flock of strange birds—”looking in from outside, all you saw was a crowd of people noisily chomping their food and a blur of chopsticks flying from their dipping sauce to their mouths and back again; dipping, licking, dipping.”

As with Babel there’s a relief valve of savage humour. Her satire scythes a wide arc. She offers no glib juxtaposition with the wise or enlightened individual. The most vicious barbs are rarely spoken. They boil away in interior monologues, concentrating the toxicity of future interactions. In “Five Days”, which charts the unfailingly polite death rattle of a marriage, a husband who hopes an incongruous night of passion could flower into eventual reconciliation awakens to the disappointment of his wife applying her make-up “in the same way sanitation workers spray disinfectants on plague-carrying dead rats.” The decidedly preoccupied narrator of “The Toll of the Sea” smirks when her leery companion massages her leg, all the while promising his intentions are honourable. She silently reasons “honourable intentions must be when a man touches a woman and the woman does not lose anything, especially her pain.”

Vũ Trọng Phụng’s 1936’s Dumb Luck launched itself at both the ossified traditional order and colonial Hanoi’s bumbling social ladder climbers. Its antihero Red-Haired Xuan exploits the pretensions of his time to rise meteorically and entirely without merit from crude, sex-obsessed tennis ball boy to respected pillar of the community. Ms Hoài’s “Vision Impaired” riffs a little off that model to skewer an arrogant, ostentatiously “alternative” man—a Vietnamese hipster—and his docile wife. It’s a lewd celebration of the cunning of the street, weighted scales and postprandial price gouging taken to a schadenfreudally righteous extreme. Artists and intellectuals, or at least those who desperately wish to be recognised as such, generally don’t fare well in Ms Hoài’s fiction at all. A playwright in “The Toll of the Sea” interrupts a pompous lecture on the merits of his latest hackneyed opus to take pervy photographs of the girls sunning themselves along Vung Tau beach. Another story’s narrator jokes “the question that preoccupies our famous artists…is how many wreaths there will be at their funeral.” The Crystal Messenger’s Hoài laughs as, ahead of his daughter’s wedding, her father changes the for display in his bookshelf “from substance to thickness”.

Decontextualised excerpts like these can sound too pleased with themselves. But the immediate targets of the scorn are almost beside the point; it’s an attack aimed at an especially visible symptom of a more widespread banal evil. So much of the pain inflicted on (and self-inflicted by) Ms Hoài’s characters stems from an emphasis on face and appearances that’s metastasised into a dominating social force. Entire lives are organised according to the imagined expectations and opinions of peers. The ouroboros of rivalry and judgement makes art a cigarette-brand-like badge of status with no inherent meaning or worth, valuable only when flaunted, and ideally envied, pernicious consequences be damned. There’s an unwillingness to publicly call whoever deems themselves artists or writers on their bullshit because everyone else is invested in reputations too. Better to play along and echo consensus than risk incurring a philistine branding. You can always hypocritically snipe in private. As narrator Hoài attends the packed funeral of the city’s literary giant, she wryly notes “nobody of my generation read him, but everybody mentioned him in tones of reverence…his astrology chart was strongest in its ‘slavery sector’”. Her eldest brother Hac’s total devotion to hustling on the basis “numbers had fuck-all to do with culture” almost assumes the gleam of integrity.

The bite and sting of abuse, the dark reflections, the bleak fates and the perpetual struggle—none of it would be such a pleasure to read were it not for the way Ms Hoài captures voice. It’s what makes her great. The Crystal Messenger and all but one of the short stories in Sunday Menu are written in the first person. Narrators range from precocious girls to fading old men without ever sounding forced or inauthentic. I revel in streams of vernacular acid, like that comprising the story “Second Hand”, because I’m a horrible person, but the eclectic choir also sings with affecting tenderness. “Man Nuong” is a paean to a love found in decrepitude, mundanity, and imperfection. The same “relentless focus” on biology and mortality that reportedly raises the ire of conservative commentators is harnessed to render a poignancy that’d bury any typical romantic fantasy. “Universal Love” hits even harder, again because of its pitch perfect tone. In a tiny room on the fifth floor her 16-year-old daughter describes as “a railway station where all the passengers are men”, a 36-year-old woman searches for something ill-defined in a succession of hopeless affairs. Ms Hoài’s precise channeling of that teenager, burned out before her time, innocence sacrificed to serve as the hidden picture to her mother’s emotional Dorian Gray, devastates. There’s no way I can comment on the fidelity of the translations. The day I’m able to study the originals and compare is the day I finish this post in Vietnamese for the sheer joy of showing off. A very, very distant goal. I’m at a level where I can process Hanoi Ink’s great commentary on translating a poem by Bùi Giáng and begin to comprehend how difficult this whole Vietnamese to English thing really is. It’s a reflection on the translator’s thankless task that despite loving both of Ms Hoài’s books, I never properly considered the collaboration that produced them. Writing that relies so much on idiosyncrasies of voice and yet reads so naturally credits Tôn-Thất Quỳnh-Du immensely.

One afternoon, with the family’s single room house to herself, The Crystal Messenger’s Hoài explores her father’s book collection and stumbles across Early Season Longans. The trashy war novel with plenty of violence and one memorably lurid sex scene blows her mind.

“There are lucky people whose doors to knowledge are ornate, orthodox, and official, opening onto a shaft of light shining on proper icons. They only need to travel that well-lit path, stand beneath those icons, and they know for certain that somewhere, another door, also ornate, awaits them. My door reeked of dirty sweaty flesh; behind it was mysterious darkness, sinful but irresistible. I do not envy those other doors. I am forever grateful for that most important event in my life, regardless of its questionable worthiness.”

I get the impression Phạm Thị Hoài wouldn’t mind dwelling in that mysterious darkness. It’s the domain of her fiction, the truly interesting stuff, the stuff that ends up determining so much of what we do, often mocking our loftier rationalisations. But her writings’ worthiness is without question. She deserves a nudge into brighter corridors. Selfishly, if nothing else, I’m desperate to read more.

****

Tried to keep this as spoiler-free as possible. I scoured eBay and second hand book databases to purchase my copies of Sunday Menu and The Crystal Messenger as Tôn-Thất Quỳnh-Du’s translations are sadly out of print. If you’re in Hanoi, have endured my unrealistically high expectation setting, and are still interested, I’m more than happy to lend them out. Hit me up via Twitter or email (sidebar). I should be around for a little while.

If you’re at the University of Melbourne, I know the Rowden White Library has a copy of The Crystal Messenger. Both books should be available through the Australian BONUS+ interlibrary borrowing system if you’re blessed with access to that.

Oh, and for all my whining about the limited presence of modern Vietnam in English language fiction, translated or otherwise, keep an eye out for Australian author Emily Maguire’s forthcoming Fishing for Tigers. I’m there in the ranks of eager anticipators, right behind—as far as I can tell—the entire Hanoi Twitter community.

I forgive you.

Here’s something you should keep in mind while perusing this blog.

I once trusted something I’d read on the internet. Something pretty important. Without really questioning it, or inquiring further.

How’s that for slashing and burning whatever trace elements of authority have been blown in my general direction?

If you search for information on obtaining a student visa in Vietnam, you’re likely to come across some variation of this from Lonely Planet:

A student visa is usually arranged after your arrival. It’s acceptable to enter Vietnam on a tourist visa, enrol in a Vietnamese language course, and then apply at the immigration police for a change in status. In reality, the easiest way to do this is to contact a travel company and have them help you make the application.”

I can’t quite call that total bullshit. Maybe things are different in Ho Chi Minh City, or at other universities. But at the University of Social Sciences and Humanities in Hanoi, if you’d like to avoid a stressful three weeks trapped in limbo—part of which is technically illegal—with no guarantee of success, I’d strongly advise organising your student visa before entering Vietnam. The official in charge of foreign students at the university was initially very pessimistic about my application. He warned the change in status from tourist to student visa had been rejected by government representatives in the past. My teacher, who handles administration for the Faculty of Linguistics, echoed his sentiments. She believed I might be forced to exit Vietnam and reenter for the alteration to be possible.

Thank christ none of that was necessary. I was made to understand how lucky I am. And for those as cynical as me, no, it wasn’t just to drive up the price. The whole application cost much less than I was expecting.

For those wanting to study here, maybe try relying on chance a little less. Got access to a tertiary institution of some kind? Ask them for help. A little bit of academic officialdom goes a long way—fight bureaucratic fire with bureaucratic fire.

It might take more effort pre-travel. That’s still preferable to leaving your fate in the hands of the Vietnamese Immigration Department. Believe me.

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